This board is your fulcrum base, against which the Locking Pliers will rest, and with extra blocks of wood you can expand your base as needed while also protecting the surface.Īt this point, when you examine what you can see of the boot, you will find enough meat to clamp down hard. When I don't have a helper, I like to hang the board in place using the other plug wires. Place a flat board that will fit horizontal along this line. 6 and looking down, spot where the valve cover meets the head, just above the plug. Now instead of Long Nose we have also used Long Lockers, but try the Long Nose first, the result might surprise you. You will be supplying a path for leverage.
#Xnip motor spark plug wires how to#
Don't worry about sizes for anything at the moment, once you use this context to examine engine space and surfaces, you will know how to size and proceed. Now for this exercise you will need Long Nose Locking Pliers, a thick board, several heavy screwdrivers and various pry bars. and if it doesn't work, we'll raise you three more. ".the 6th cylinder is facing the fire wall with very little room to get a tool in."ĭon't snip the shield just yet as we consider a solution that has worked for us. then after words using high heat tape the fix the cut spot enough so it won't just come off (even though i highly doubt it would anyways.)Īny suggestions would be great. Now i was thinking of taking tin snips and cutting the sheathing at least enough to get a blade down the boot to remove it. there is still a small strand of wire left in it but thats it. i broke a majority of it off trying to remove the boot since i couldn't get much leverage on it and i was replacing it anyways.
#Xnip motor spark plug wires plus#
plus it won't go over the boot since the other side of the metal sheathing is smaller than the rest of the boot (i just looked and compared to another boot/sheathing.) i had done that to cut as much of the boot as i can but still nothing. I am able to move the metal sheathing a little bit more towards the engine block. the only problem is that the 6th cylinder is facing the fire wall with very little room to get a tool in, but i would still like to hear your idea involving the air compressor. I do have an air compressor on site with multiple tools to use. obviously i don't want either of those to happen since that would be way more work than i want to really do.ĭoes anyone have any suggestions on getting this off? i signed up for this forum solely for reasons that you guys would encounter this 6th cylinder bullshit so hopefully i can get a good answer out of this. but that brings up problems like getting ceramic into the cylinder or messing up the threads on the head. i also read somewhere that i can take something long enough to reach it and slightly hit it until the plug breaks.
So now i have a pretty cut up boot that still won't budge. only problem with that is the metal sheathing that goes over the plug really gets in the way of cutting the boot off. I read somewhere that if you were planning on replacing the plugs and wires that you can just cut off the boot then remove the plug normally. with the little leverage i had it wasn't doing much no matter how much i hit it with pb blaster or pulled with pliers. well the 6th one is also really hard to reach from any angle (including both sides, on top and bellow). but then i came across the 6th cylinder plug.Īs most of you might know in the 97 riv's the engine is mounted sideways, so that means plugs 2,4 and 6 are facing the firewall. i got 5 out of the 6 out with a good amount of trouble on some. Well while i was doing it i noticed the boots on the wires were really in there. i found out the plugs/wires haven't been changed in a long time so i was going to start there (since they needed it anyways so why not) I have a sc with multiple cylinder miss fire.
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